Issue #10: Passed Down, Poured Forward

🅢 = Story: From the Founder


In my family, Vietnamese coffee was always a communal experience. I recall smelling and seeing Robusta dripping in phins every time we went for Pho or at big social gatherings. The rhythm of coffee, food, conversations, and everyone slowing down together is at the heart of a culture I’m proud to rep. 

 

When I visited Vietnam a few months ago, I saw that same community reflected in a different but similar form, with families working side by side, building a livelihood that stretches across generations. I was in awe that a simple but powerful coffee bean can anchor families together and sustain entire communities. 

 

I couldn’t be more honored to play a role in bringing Robusta to the forefront. It is truly part of our collective story. 

 

— Lan Ho, Founder of Fat Miilk

 

🅘 = Insight: Robusta’s Generational Impact


At Fat Miilk, we roast to order, which gives us an intimate understanding of the beans and the process. With 10+ years in the specialty coffee industry, working in quality control, sourcing, sample roasting, and now production, I’ve never been more excited to share what we’re discovering with Robusta.— Kim Nguyen, Head of Coffee Quality and Sourcing

 

In Routine

 

Growing up, my dad used to brew strongly caffeinated and dark roasted Robusta in a phin over a glass cup with about an inch-thick layer of condensed milk. It would drip slowly onto the condensed milk for up to five to six minutes, with its dark droplets contrasting the creamy white band of syrupy sugar. When it was finished, my dad would stir it carefully until it became the tannish milky consistency and pour ice into the glass to the top. This was his morning weekend routine. And one I remembered as a child until I became an adult working in coffee.

 

In Tradition

 

When routine becomes something that gets passed down to generations, it can become a tradition. With my family, it became a tradition to brew Robusta with a phin on the weekends, as it was a slower and relaxed process. When I got to college, I would bring that tradition with me, as it helped through long nights of finals and endless writing assignments 

 

In the Farms

 

Before Robusta got to our phins and cups in our home, the many generations of farmers and producers who invested their care into growing the cherries had to ensure the quality. For farms to succeed, it takes the whole family helping and pitching in. From great-grandfathers and mothers to grandchildren, everyone contributes. The labor-intensive work from ensuring the proper agronomy is applied for the Robust plants to thrive, to the proper drying techniques to make sure the coffee is exported in beautiful condition takes a village (full of families). Robusta plants trace back to generations, with hands of all ages doing the work. 

 

I’ve learned that no matter when or how we come to appreciate Robusta, the story behind each cup is meaningful, and at its core, it’s always family.

 


🅟 = Pulse: The Community Behind the Bean

 

The industry is leaning into Robusta for its resilience AND the community ecosystem behind it. In Vietnam, over 95% of Robusta farms are smallholder and family-run, creating a tight, generational network of shared practices and processing knowledge.

 

Global demand reflects this shift:

  • Robusta exports continue to rise, driven by climate pressure on Arabica and the need for consistent supply.
  • Specialty roasters are increasing Robusta percentages to stabilize blends and expand flavor profiles.
  • Vietnam remains the world leader, providing nearly 40% of global Robusta.

 

The market is recognizing what communities in Vietnam have known for decades, that Robusta’s strength comes from both its agronomy and the families who sustain it.

 

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