Issue #24: Moving Robusta Forward

🅢 = Story: Why We Share

 

When we started S.I.P. on Robusta, it was never meant to be a newsletter that simply reported industry news or showcased what Fat Miilk was doing. It was meant to be a living journal of what we're learning in real time.

 

Every roast, cupping, customer interaction, menu item, and every conversation continues to shape how we think about Robusta. Some of our biggest breakthroughs haven't come from having the answers, but rather they've come from asking better questions. That's exactly what makes this moment so exciting.

 

If we genuinely want to make space for Robusta within specialty coffee, we can't keep our discoveries to ourselves. We have to share what we're seeing, testing, getting right, and even what we're getting wrong. Knowledge is what moves an industry forward, and right now Robusta needs more people willing to contribute to that collective understanding.

 

That's the purpose of this newsletter.

 

The Robusta movement won't grow because one company says it should. It will grow because more people become curious enough to explore it together.

 

— Lan Ho, Founder of Fat Miilk

 

🅘 = Insight: Robusta Rabbit Hole

At Fat Miilk, we roast to order, which gives us an intimate understanding of the beans and the process. With 10+ years in the specialty coffee industry, working in quality control, sourcing, sample roasting, and now production, I’ve never been more excited to share what we’re discovering with Robusta. — Kim Nguyen, Head of Coffee Quality and Sourcing

 

Like many coffee professionals before me, I was pulled into the rabbit hole of information overload that comes with learning about coffee. The origins and how terroir affects flavor, how density impacts roasting, what post-harvest processing takes place at the farm level, the list goes on. There is an overwhelming amount of knowledge to absorb, and it can be quite intimidating in the beginning.

 

What I've found with Robusta is that the barrier to entry isn't nearly as inundated with information because there simply isn't as much research about it. Because of that, I've found I can create my own path of learning, which has been incredibly liberating. I also get to share that journey with others and connect with them along the way. People tend to love Robusta because it feels familiar, but also exciting.

 

The Robusta Narrative

 

There is a reason why underdog stories become so popular. People love a feel-good story. They want to root for something that has faced obstacles and deserves a chance to succeed. Robusta has long been marketed as the "less than" species of coffee because it has historically been grown as a commodity.

 

What I've been seeing, though, is that people are becoming much more receptive to Robusta as a coffee that deserves to stand alongside Arabica. For those who grew up drinking dark-roasted Cuban coffee or traditional Italian espresso, it's an immediate taste of home or something comfortingly familiar. And Robusta's inherent sweetness is often more approachable than Arabica's higher acidity, which many people perceive as sour.

 

Even though it thrives at lower elevations, Robusta consistently delivers a dependable cup with caramel and honey-like sweetness. Its earthy character creates a grounded foundation that allows its fuller body to shine. In regions with higher rainfall and increasing pressure from leaf rust, Robusta continues to prove its resilience and is becoming more central to the coffee conversation.

 

The Robusta Gateway

 

As my career with Robusta continues, I've found that it's a much more approachable entry point into the coffee rabbit hole. From a sensory standpoint, it's generally straightforward and can be easier to build into a menu. Robusta feels natural as both a drip coffee and an espresso option.

 

From a roasting perspective, it can also be more forgiving than certain Arabica varieties, making it an excellent coffee for someone just beginning their roasting journey. As a darker roast, it lends itself beautifully to specialty beverages. As a lighter roast, it produces a sweet, balanced espresso shot.

 

Because the barriers to entry for roasting and sensory evaluation are relatively low, people with little to no coffee experience can learn at a comfortable pace. It also gives us the freedom to create something new with Robusta because there isn't an established blueprint telling us exactly what it has to be.

 

The Robusta Movement 

 

Now that the conversation has expanded beyond the coffee industry, Robusta is here to stay. It's an exciting moment because the roasters choosing to work with Robusta today are helping set the standard for what comes next.

 

Vietnamese Robusta is finally receiving the recognition it deserves, and it's up to roasters like Fat Miilk to uphold the level of quality it represents. I'm grateful to be one of the voices advocating for it, and I'm excited to keep going deeper down this Robusta rabbit hole.

 

 

🅟 = Pulse: A New Way In

 

For years, coffee education has centered around mastering complexity like origin, processing, varietals, extraction, and countless variables that shape a cup. That depth of knowledge has helped move specialty coffee forward, but it has also created a high barrier to entry for many professionals and consumers alike.

 

As Robusta gains momentum, we're seeing an opportunity to approach coffee education differently. Instead of asking, "How much do you know?" we're asking, "What are you experiencing?" More roasters are exploring Robusta with fresh eyes, free from decades of assumptions, and that curiosity is creating space for new conversations around quality, flavor, and consumer preference.

 

Perhaps that's Robusta's greatest strength right now: not that it has all the answers, but that it invites us to ask new questions. And for an industry built on constant learning, that may be one of the most exciting developments of all.

 

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